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Showing posts with label Light. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Light. Show all posts

How to Photograph Wine Bottles Using Dark Field Lighting

Article by: Trevor Dennis

This was done as part of a poster project for Chris. The glass is pure dark field. The bottle is a bit of a mishmash using the dark field setup I had in place for the glass, but with a manual blend of three exposures and finally an exposure with my largest white reflector each side of the camera.


how to photograph wine bottles
how to photograph wine bottles


I have taken to using the largest scrim I can manage behind the subject to maximize the wrap round. You can see this worked better camera right than camera left, and that's because I was holding a two meter high reflector while pressing the shutter release, and I could not reach on the left side, so had to improvise. (I was set up in the corner of our bedroom because it’s too cold to work in the garage)

Post Processing


The BG is Photoshop, as are the shadows. The texture was placed behind the glass by:

  1. Ctrl click the Glass layer to select it.
  2. Select the BG layer with texture, and press “Ctrl + j” to copy the glass shape.
  3. Move the new layer above the glass layer, and set its blend mode to Lighter Color.
  4. Ctrl click the new layer to select it.
  5. Contract and feather the selection (enough to shrink it back from the glass edges)
  6. Add a layer mask to the new layer. (I think I have that the right way round, but if not, just invert the mask – Ctrl i)
  7. I also reduced opacity a bit as you would not see the full texture behind a real glass.


BTW When you add noise to a gradient to produce texture, it lightens it. There’s no way round it if you already started with full black, so you need to use curves or levels on the texture layer. The smart way is to do it with a linked adjustment layer so you can run a gradient down the mask to control where and how much.

Lighting for the Shot


Bowens Gemini, (triggered Pocket Wizard Plus 2s), with 1.2 meter octobox, fired into 1.5 meter scrim behind subjects, with dark card between subject and scrim (dark field - as in Fil Hunter's 'Light Science & Magic' book)


Related Reading


Collapsible Reflectors for Photography - Which Color Reflector to Use


In earlier days Collapsible Reflectors were double sided and where available in combination of Gold and White, Silver and White and Gold and Silver. But now a days these collapsible reflectors have improved and they come in variation of 3 in 1, 5 in 1 and 7 in 1.


Foldable Photography Lighting Reflector
Foldable Photography Lighting Reflector


One question most beginners ask is how we choose the colour of reflector to use. The most common combination found in collapsible reflectors is silver, gold, black, white and translucent. Each has its own purpose and modifies light differently.

White and Silver Reflectors


While shooting indoors using studio strobes or flashes it is recommended to use either white or silver reflectors. The reason being studio strobes and camera flashes are day light balanced and they produce white light, so if you use gold reflector in combination with these lights you will end up with white light on one side of the subject and much warmer toned light on the other.

These also do work well when shooting outdoors during daytime (except golden hour). The choice between Silver and White is more a matter of personal choice. In general Silver reflectors bounce more light than White and they produce a slightly hard light than White so I personally use Silver reflectors when I use bare strobes/flashes (without softboxes) or when shooting with a beauty dish. White reflector produces very soft light and so is used more in combination with softbox, it could also be used as a white background for head and shoulders portraits and for small subjects like flowers and products.

To increase the amount of light reflected back, simply move the reflector closer to the subject and vice versa.

Golden Reflector


Golden reflector adds a golden cast to the light and simulates light during sunrise and sunset (golden hour) and is the preferred choice when shooting at those times. It works well with tungsten lights and other warm light sources (also with strobes and flashes gelled yellow or orange).

The Translucent Panel


Translucent panel is designed to be used as a Scrim which is placed between the subject and the light source to soften the light. When the translucent panel is placed between the subject and the light, the panel now acts as the light source, the size of the panel is now the effective size of the light and subject to light distance is now measured from the subject to the panel and not subject to actual light. The closer you move the panel to your subject the softer will be the light and vice versa.

The Black Panel


The black panel included in the collapsible reflector has two uses; firstly it could be used as a gobo. A gobo is something you place between the light source and the subject to prevent light from reaching the subject. It is used when you need to control the areas being lit by the light. Secondly it could be used as a black background for head and shoulders portraits and for photographing small subjects like flowers and products.

Related Reading


  1. Photography lighting - 12 Questions to ask yourself before clicking a picture
  2. Wide Panel in Camera Flashes, What is it? What does it do?
  3. Inner Diffuser Baffles in Softboxes – What is it for? What does it do?
  4. The Inverse Square Law and Practical Photography
  5. What Happens When Light Falls On a Surface

How To Photograph Christmas Trees


Now that everyone has their Christmas trees decorated and have piled up presents underneath it, let’s see how best to capture the beauty of the Christmas tree in our photographs.


How To Photograph Christmas Trees
Photo by: Stephen Vance


Here are some tips to photograph Christmas Trees.


1. Use a Tripod


Shooting Christmas trees means shooting indoors mostly in low light situations (often times the main lighting in the room is turned off or reduced in strength to reveal the beauty of the Christmas tree and to make it stand out in the scene) using a solid tripod gives you the ability to get sharp pictures even with very slow shutter speeds.  This also helps you shoot in low ISO’s for better image quality.

2. Cable Release / Remote or Self Timer


To further improve the sharpness of our pictures we can use a cable release or camera remote to release the shutter, if you don’t have a cable release or a remote you can simply set your camera to self timer and get sharp images.

3. Use White Balance Creatively



christmas tree photography technique
Photo by: Andy Castro


You can play with white balance settings of your camera to get creative effects. Set white balance to warmer settings and give your Christmas images a Cozy feel alternatively set your white balance to cooler settings and give your Christmas images a wintery feel. Do also try shooting in black and white, Christmas images look great without all those colors detracting attention of the viewers from the subjects.

4. Shoot RAW



christmas tree photography tips
Photo by: Trey Ratcliff


The previous tip was about creative use of white balance to enhance the feel of your shots, one could either experiment while shooting or shoot in RAW and choose the settings that work best later while post processing. Shooting in RAW format also gives you more control over exposure in post processing.

5. Use Evaluative or Matrix Metering Mode


Photographing Christmas lights could prove tricky to your camera’s meter, it is better to use Evaluative or Matrix metering modes rather than spot metering mode.  If you use spot metering mode, depending upon where you get your meter readings from (it could be from a bright light source or a shadow) your exposure could be way off.

6. Meter from a Neutral Subject


While taking a meter reading it is recommended to meter off a neutral subject in the scene, and not with the camera pointed directly at a light source or a shadow area consider some area that is somewhere in between.

7. Use Your Camera’s Histogram to Correct Exposures



christmas tree bokeh
Photo by: Jack


Consult your camera’s histogram regularly to determine correct exposures, in such tricky situations your cameras metering system could fail and will give you incorrect exposures. Do not rely just the LCD display to check your exposure but use the histogram feature (use both RGB and Luminosity histograms) to make sure your exposure is correct and you are not clipping highlights or shadows.

8. Play with Depth of Field


Try experimenting with depth of field to get different effects, if you have an uninteresting background or if you wish to make your Christmas tree stand out in your picture use wide apertures (f/2.8, f/4 etc). if you wish to include the features in the background also reasonably sharp use narrow aperture (f/11, f/16 etc).


Christmas Light Photography
Christmas Light Photography


Shooting light sources with narrow apertures in lowlight has a very nice side effect; all the lights in your picture will look like starbursts (similar to the effect you get using a starburst filter). This could make your picture stand out from the rest, but remember shooting in low light conditions with narrow aperture will require either a very high ISO setting or very low shutter speeds or a combination of both.

9. Shutter Speeds and How it affects the lights


The shutter speed used to capture the scene also affects the way the lights are rendered in the picture. Slower shutter speeds capture movement in the lights and faster shutter speeds freeze them completely.


Christmas lights and shutter speeds
Christmas lights and shutter speeds


Lights appear larger and a bit blurred when shot using slower shutter speeds whereas they appear smaller (like points of light) when shot with faster shutter speeds.

10. Capture Details



how to photograph christmas tree
Photo by: Flood G


You have taken a lot of care to make sure your Christmas tree look great and have decorated it with all sorts of items carefully chosen to match the scene. Once you have captures wide shots of the Christmas tree it’s time to move in close, use a macro lens if you have one and capture details like branches, presents and lights.

11. Mind the Reflections



christmas tree photography
Photo by: Mohammadali F


When shooting up close, shiny objects could reflect the world around them and that could mean you and your camera could also get reflected. Sometimes it creates a very interesting picture and sometimes it appears as a detail which the photographer forgot to notice while photographing the object. Keep this in mind and if you choose to keep reflections it should appear intentional and make it artistic else it is better to avoid it entirely by changing shooting angles.

12. Take Christmas Portraits with Your Christmas Tree Included



christmas portraits
Photo by: Jeff Meyer


Take pictures of your friends and family and try to include your Christmas tree also in the shot, to get best results, turn on every light on the Christmas tree, adjust ambient light (light in the room) to match the brightness of the lights in the Christmas tree. It is better to keep the ambient light a bit lower than the lights on the Christmas tree to create a mood. Remember when photographing people in such conditions it is better to get shutter speeds a bit faster even if you are shooting on a tripod as chances are your subjects could move slightly and cause blur. Raising the ISO is many times the only option to get the required shutter speed.

13. Add Light to the Scene



photographing christmas trees
Photo by: Lulu Lovering


To get a sparkly feel to your Christmas pictures you will need an additional light source (other than the lights on the Christmas tree) this is even more important when shooting with narrow apertures. It could either be a continuous light source or your camera flash.

14. Using Flash to Add Light



tips for photographing christmas trees
Photo by: Jason Mrachina


When using flash to capture Christmas pictures make sure you only use it as a fill light source and never as the main light. Also never use flash front on, use it bounced off the walls or the ceiling. Control the brightness of the flash or use adequate flash exposure combination to get the balance between the ambient and the flash right. It is also advisable to set your flash to rear curtain (second curtain) sync and drag the shutter to expose the scene. If you room is lit predominantly with tungsten lights then gel your flash yellow to match the colour temperature of the room lights.

Have fun, use the tips, take lots of pictures and do share it with us in comments… Merry Christmas.

Related Reading


  1. Best Camera Settings for Photographing Christmas Lights
  2. 12 Photography Tips for Better Party Photos
  3. Shaped Bokeh Tutorial
  4. 20 Digital Photography Tips for Better Christmas Pictures
  5. How to Photograph Christmas Lights

Diy Flash Diffuser for Macro Photography Using Styrofoam Plate


This is perhaps the easiest flash diffuser project ever. Take a styrofoam plate, the larger the plate the better, it need not be circular even rectangle or oval shaped plates work quite well.


diy flash diffuser
diy flash diffuser


Take out your lens filter, press it gently on the styrofoam plate so as to make a mark, then cut out the circle,  (cut the inside of the line so that the plate attaches tightly on to the lens filter) attach the filter back on to the lens, slid the styrofoam plate on to the filter and you are good to go.


styrofoam dish flash diffuer
styrofoam dish flash diffuer


There is some light loss with this setup as a considerable amount of light gets reflected back from the white surface of the styrofoam plate. But the impotant thing for us is that most of the light will pass through the plate, the surface of the plate now acts as the light source which is many times larger than the flash head also the light gets spread in all angles evenly illuminating the area ahead.

With this diy flash diffuser it is possible to get soft light very close to the lens which is not possible without it as the lens itself would cast its shadow on the subject. 


macro photography flash diffuser
macro photography flash diffuser


This will also work with a dedicated flash unit mounted on top of the camera. The most important thing to remember is that this setup is only effective for macro photography, for subjects that is a little bit distant from the camera this wont work well due to the light loss and spread of the light beam. But for macro photography this works like a charm.

Here's a shot taken with our diy flash diffuser


flash diffuser for macro photography
flash diffuser for macro photography


Related Reading


  1. How to turn any Lens into a Macro Lens the Lens Reversal Technique
  2. How to Lock a Lens at a Certain Aperture
  3. Stacking Lenses with Coupling Rings for Extreme Macro Photography
  4. Macro Photography Using Extension Tubes
  5. Lens Extension and Effective F Stop

5 Tips For Using your Flash Creatively

1. Fill Flash into a Scene



Photo By  Dustin Diaz


When shooting against the light, you can use flash to fill in some light into the subject. for example, fill flash works well when you are shooting a person against the setting sun. The camera will expose for the sky, but the flash will ensure that the subject is also lit and not silhouetted. The same can be done by using the Night Portrait or Backlit Portrait mode.


Photo By Sabrina C

2. Avoid Direct Flash


Direct flash means the one that is built in to your camera or flashes mounted on the hot shoe. Shots taken using direct flash more often than not end up with red eye, and also have a flattened feel to them. So best alternative is to use off camera flash and if you really need to use your on camera flash try some method to either diffuse it or bounce it.


Photo By David McNeil

3. Use Flash But Also Capture Some Ambient Light


One common problem faced by amateurs while using flash is that the background appears dark and all pictures look the same. In order to capture an environmental portrait kind of shot you should also try to capture some ambient light. The trick is to expose for the ambient light by using slow shutter speeds and firing your flash to light up your subject. If you are shooting with a point and shoot camera, use the flash in the slow sync mode, or use the night portrait mode in your camera. These modes fire flash during a long exposure thereby capturing the ambient light and giving a sense of the place the image was shot at.


Photo By Brent Pearson

4. Get Creative With Flash


You could introduce colour casts to your shots by using gels on your flash. Gels come in many colours and sizes, simply choose the one that will suit your specific requirement. Gels could be used to either warm up or cool down the feel of the shot, shades of yellow and red warms up the scene while shades of blue cools it down. Gels could also be used to match the colour temperature of light coming from your flash with that of ambient light in the scene.


Photo By Cyril Gravelier

5. Control the Spread of Light from your Flash


Controlling the light coming out from you flash units is important to get the right kind of lighting. You could use attachments to your flash heads like, diffusers, snoots, grids etc or you could use cutters/gobos/barn doors to modify and shape the light coming out from your flash.

In the next article we will discuss about Photography - Lighting - Flash - Understanding TTL Flash – Mastering Flash Photography - How To Get Better Lighting From Your On Camera Flash


Photo By Paul Cox




Stroboscopic Flash Photography

Stroboscopic flash photography is the technique used by photographers to capture a sequence of images of a moving subject in a single frame. The trick behind stroboscopic flash effect is to fire a rapid burst of low power flashes during the course of a photographic exposure. With each pulse of flash an instance of the subject at its then state is captured and thus at the end of the exposure the frame will have various instances of the subject. The number of instances captured will depend on the number of flashes fired during the exposure.



Stroboscopic Flash Photography
Photo By Patrickkwk


The Three major elements of Stroboscopic Flash Photography
  •     Hertz (Hz)
  •     Flash count
  •     Flash power

Hertz (Hz) denotes the frequency at which the flash is fired. Hertz is measured in seconds 1Hz = once a second and 5Hz = five times a second so higher the value, the more is the number of flashes happening per second. When in stroboscopic mode the flash allows you to set the frequency, generally modern flash guns allows values between 1 – 199 Hz.


Stroboscopic Flash Photography Effect
Photo By ?UG?

Flash count is the total number of pulses emitted by the flash during the exposure. Only the latest flash units allows you to set this manually, in earlier models you just set the frequency and shutter speed and do the Flash Count calculation manually


Stroboscopic Flash
Photo By AveLardo

Flash count = Shutter Speed * Hertz (Hz)

For example if the shutter speed set is 2 seconds and the frequency (Hertz (Hz)) set is 5 then flash count will be 2 * 5 = 10

In latest flash units you set the frequency fist (Hertz (Hz)), then set the number of pulses (Flash Count) and based on it calculate the required shutter speed using the following equation.

Shutter speed = Flash count / Hertz (Hz)


For example to calculate shutter speed when the flash count set is 10 and the frequency (Hertz (Hz) set is 5, then the shutter speed should be a minimum of 10/5 = 2 seconds to allow all the pulses to fall within the exposure time.

Flash power is not determined by the flashes brightness but by the duration for which it’s emitting light. So when you change your flash setting to 1/4 power from 1/8 power you are actually doubling the flash duration and not doubling the flashes brightness.


Stroboscopic Flash Photography
Photo By Aaron Geller

Most flash units only allow a maximum power setting of ¼ th power or less when in stroboscopic mode.

All the three elements mentioned above are interlinked and changes to each affect the exposure of the image. When the frequency of flash (Hertz (Hz) is increased the flash has only less time per each pulse so the power of the flash will decrease and when the frequency is decreased the flash need to fire only fewer bursts and so greater will be its power.

Flash recycling time is also an important aspect, the faster the flash frequency the lesser the recycling time and so lesser the flash power and vice versa.

In order to cope with the decrease in power you will have to decrease the flash to subject distance considerably to correctly expose the picture. Remember the earlier article on Inverse Square Law of Light.

How to use Stroboscopic Flash


Stroboscopic Flash Photography Tips
Photo By Aaron Geller

  1.     Set your camera on a tripod and switch it to Manual mode
  2.     Attach flash and set it to stroboscopic mode
  3.     Set the Flash count
  4.     Set the Frequency (Hertz (Hz)
  5.     Calculate and set the shutter speed required (Shutter speed = Flash count / Hertz (Hz)
  6.     Focus on the subject and shift focus to manual to keep it locked
  7.     Use the table in the instruction manual or use trial and error to find the right Aperture value
  8.     Press shutter, check the image in LCD and make corrections to aperture or flash power values if necessary.

Stroboscopic Flash Photography Technique and Tutorial
Photo By Dave F

Stroboscopic effect is best achieved when done on a bright subject in a dark background. If the background is not black the light from multiple pulses will be added together to expose quite a bit of details in the background and will create many issues. Shooting at night out in a dark open ground is the best and easiest way to experiment stroboscopic effect as you need not worry about the flash illuminating anything in the background. All you need to focus will be on the flash power and subject to flash distance.


Stroboscopic Flash Tutorial
Photo By Robbie Veldwijk

While experimenting with stroboscopic flash photography effect; it should always be kept in mind that firing multiple flashes consecutively is a strain on your flash units and as a result it may heat up and cause damage to the flash. So never attempt more than 10 trials before giving the flash a little time to cool off. Or better work at a slow pace allowing time in between each trial.

High Speed Flash Synchronization

High speed synchronization or high speed sync is how modern cameras and flashes attain speeds that are above their normal sync speed. FP flash function is set on the flash control panel.

How Does High Speed Flash Sync Work?


High speed flash sync also referred to as “long burn” flash, works by increasing the time duration of the flash to put out a constant stream of light till the moving slit formed by the focal plane shutter completes its journey across the sensor. We are now familiar with our compact flashes and know that they fire at speeds far greater than 1/1000 of a second. So in high speed sync mode the flash is made to fire many times per second practically producing a continuous beam of light. Although it is a lot of work for the small flashes to do but it is possible because what we are talking about here is actually a very very short period of time. Speeds in excess of 1/200 th of a second (standard sync speed of digital camera employing focal plane shutter). As the light output stays for the entire duration of the exposure, each area receives the same amount of illumination from the flash and hence there are no issues of parts of the frame blacking out. High speed sync permits the use of very high shutter speeds even as high as 1/8000 of a second.


High Speed Flash Synchronization
Photo By Photo Art

One major drawback of the high speed sync feature is that it reduces the power output of the flash unit, the faster the shutter speed used, the lower the power of the flash. For example if a shutter speed of 1/500 second is used for a shot, the guide number of the Speedlite becomes less than half its normal rating, and if the shutter speed is further increased to 1/2000 the flash power drops to less than a quarter.

Uses of High Speed Flash Sync


Stop Motion


The most important feature of high speed sync is that if facilitates the use of higher shutter speeds that Stops Motion. It helps you ‘freeze’ the movement of the subject while the flash acts as a fill light source adding details to the shadow areas.

Depth of Field - Balance Flash Light with Ambient


By saying balance flash power with ambient we are always referring to sunlight. High speed sync flash is mostly used when shooting portraits outdoors in broad daylight as it helps you use wider apertures facilitating creative use of depth of field in your photos.


High Speed Flash Synchronization
Photo By Scottbaldwin

In the next article we will discuss about Photography - Lighting - Flash - Focal Plane Shutter

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